F.A.Q.’s (Frequently Asked Questions)
Q: What bar spacing is appropriate for my pet?
A: This raging controversy seems alive and well. If you are in the US, the prevailing wisdom is that bar spacing should prevent the pet from getting its head through the bars, period. In many other locations throughout the world, the “ideal” bar spacing is larger than the pet’s head so the head (not torso) can get through the bars and back out easily. So long as there are no converging bars, larger bar spacing means fewer bars to clean, more pet visibility, and less cage weight. Our conclusion? Both opinions are correct. The “wrong” bar spacing is the spacing that allows the pet to just “squeeze” the head through and makes it tough or impossible to pull the head back into the cage. Regardless, there should be no converging bars facing down; that would be dangerous. If a pet gets an appendage through the bars and struggles, the bars should never converge to “tighten the grip” as gravity pulls the pet downward. You are ultimately responsible for the suitability of bar spacing for your species of bird.
Q: Vertical or horizontal bars or both?
A: Aesthetics and cleanliness are two key issues (except for the youngest pets). Vertical bars stay cleaner longer (bird poop gets one bar or none!). Many like the “look” of vertical bars. In addition, vertical bars result in less damage to feathers of long-tailed birds. Conversely, horizontal bars (left to right) are harder to keep clean (if bird poop gets one bar, it gets 20!). However, customers with younger pets may like the horizontal bar ladder effect for easy climbing. Many customers prefer both vertical bars on the front and back panels which are the most visible, and horizontal bars on the side panels for easy climbing.
Q: Stainless Steel vs. Powder Coated cages?
A: Stainless steel is considered a permanent material, and is normally not painted or powder coated. Stainless is more expensive than steel powder coated cage; we use medical grade stainless so it doesn’t rust. You may want a permanent stainless cage, especially if you live in proximity to salt air where corrosion is a major problem. Others select stainless cages because they like the “sanitary look” of stainless, and do not want to be concerned about potentially unsafe zinc levels in some painted cages. On the other hand, powder coated cages have a finite life and will eventually rust depending on the environment. But others like the “softer” colors available in a powder coated cage, colors that may coordinate better with their home decor, and their affordability.
Q: Dome or Play Top?
A: Aesthetics, a distinctively different look, and a different function. All other factors equal, a dome top provides more interior space for the pet, important if the pet is confined to the cage throughout most of the day. With adequate floor space, most believe the ideal situation would be to have a dome top cage for more interior space, and a mobile, separate play area. But with limited floor space, and a short-tailed pet, it may be more practical to have an “all in one” home, where the cage and play top are a single unit. Caution: Pets can be protective of their cage. They may tend to nip fingers more often when their play area is on top!
Q: Slide out lower grate or lift out lower grate?
A: For convenience, a slide-out lower grate is best. During cleaning, one does not have to remove perches or other interior cage accessories to remove the grate. But a slide out grate has a disadvantage with powder coated cages. The friction from the slide out grate can prematurely wear out the powder coating; the slide may be the first area to begin rusting. Convenience vs. cage life, this is the decision you must make. No question, a locking, slide out lower grate has all the advantages and none of the disadvantages when the cage is made of stainless steel.
Q: Single-piece or break-down construction?
A: Cage size may be important when answering this question. The advantages of a single piece constructed cage include less weight, less assembly required, smoother corner posts, and fewer crevices to collect debris. The major disadvantage is the lack of flexibility, especially for a larger cage. A cage made in a single piece is limited in size to the width of your doorway (you need to be able to get the cage in the house!). Even if the doors on your current home will accommodate a large cage, will your next home? On the other hand, a cage with a collapsible construction provides the flexibility of having a large cage in your home, the ability to install the Freedom Buffet on either the left or right side of the cage, and the ability to disassemble the cage during household moves. In conclusion, cages that are 24 inches deep or less (with skirts removed) can be either single piece or collapsible since this size will fit through almost all doorways. Anything deeper, you may want to seriously consider collapsible construction.
Q: What size cage do I need?
A: Of course a larger cage is better as a general rule since more space means more exercise room and health; perhaps a screened acre of land is best! But pets need to accommodate their owners too, so floor space, living habits (is the pet outside of the cage most of the day, just using the cage to sleep?), and many other factors, to include cost, should all be considered. If the pet is caged most of the time, consider a dome top with sufficient interior space so that exercising and wing flapping will not result in frayed feathers.